Siren speaker wires?

[Retired1]

Can I run just one wire connecting the speaker (+) connection on the amp to the speaker (+) and then run the amp speaker connection (-) and the speaker (-) each to a nearby convenient ground (-) on the frame of the vehicle?


Siren speakers have two leads (+ and -). The siren amplifiers have speaker (+) and speaker common (-) leads. I have always run a two wire cable connecting the amplifier to the speaker. I would like to eliminate one run of wire through a loom, the ground/negative (-) wire, if possible.


Thanks in advance for any help given.

 

[MtnMan]

It may be possible, depending on the kind of siren, but it's not good practice.


Running one more 18 ga wire can't be that difficult.

 

[Steve0625]

Can I run just one wire connecting the speaker (+) connection on the amp to the speaker (+) and then run the amp speaker connection (-) and the speaker (-) each to a nearby convenient ground (-) on the frame of the vehicle?

Siren speakers have two leads (+ and -). The siren amplifiers have speaker (+) and speaker common (-) leads. I have always run a two wire cable connecting the amplifier to the speaker. I would like to eliminate one run of wire through a loom, the ground/negative (-) wire, if possible.


Thanks in advance for any help given.

Generally, it's not advisable for any loudspeakers; siren, radio, or otherwise. In some electronics, the speaker audio (-) is not the same as ground. Grounding the speaker circuit to the vehicle lets the carefully packaged smoke out of the radio, siren, or other amplifier. Better to run both speaker (+) and (-) and be safe no matter what the appliance may be. That's one of the reasons that many installers use two conductor jacketed cable from the siren or radio direct to the speaker. The jacketing is an extra measure of protection against accidental grounding. And, by using jacketed cable, loudspeaker wiring is easily identifiable where ever it is seen in the vehicle.


Your long standing practice of running both wires is a good one.

 

[Retired1]

Generally, it's not advisable for any loudspeakers; siren, radio, or otherwise. In some electronics, the speaker audio (-) is not the same as ground. Grounding the speaker circuit to the vehicle lets the carefully packaged smoke out of the radio, siren, or other amplifier. Better to run both speaker (+) and (-) and be safe no matter what the appliance may be. That's one of the reasons that many installers use two conductor jacketed cable from the siren or radio direct to the speaker. The jacketing is an extra measure of protection against accidental grounding. And, by using jacketed cable, loudspeaker wiring is easily identifiable where ever it is seen in the vehicle.

Your long standing practice of running both wires is a good one.

Steve,


That is what I was looking for (especially the reference to: "the carefully packaged smoke"). Thank you.


Terry

 

[minig0d]

Don't do itttttttttt


I'd run a few tiny gauge wires through the loom and solder them back to normal gauge wire on the outsides of the loom before I'd attempt to do that...

 

[Retired1]

Don't do itttttttttt

I'd run a few tiny gauge wires through the loom and solder them back to normal gauge wire on the outsides of the loom before I'd attempt to do that...

Thanks for the suggestion However, my question was not because of wire size, I can run any size wire I want to. I inquired only to see if I could make an install "cleaner" appearing using a minimalist approach. I have abandoned the thought and will continue to use weatherproof 2 wire cable, all the way from the amp to the speaker, as I have done in the past.

 

[SoloRTP]

I inquired only to see if I could make an install "cleaner" appearing using a minimalist approach.

Not if you want cleaner SOUND, with minimum smoke.


Audio of any kind should be on wire, not on grounded chassis. You never know when a ground loop might be a problem, and pumping 100 watts is a sure way to find out. RAPIDLY.