Made this video of how i did the cleaning of my clear Twinsonic domes:
hope it helps!
hope it helps!
I tried using brasso and it worked good on my whelen 8000 lens. But I still have a slight tint of yellow hazing but way better. I want to try some Flitz heard walmart has it.I agree on the Novus 2 with excellent results. It is a rare day that I will use Novus 3 on beacon domes.
OK, this is going to sound too good to be true (and too cheap) and take nowhere near the time that is consumed sanding, polishing, buffing, etc. and you will be amazed....Whats even more hilarious is my wife discovered it. While she was pregnant, she was on leave from work and I gave her a bunch of lenses to sand, polish, buff, etc. while I was at work, and she was like "screw this", did some experimenting, and came up with this....Here's the archive of the existing info:
Please post all dome cleaning and polishing tips as a reply here.
are you still interested in seeing someone wet sand? id be more than happy to show you.Can someone post a video of thier wet sanding method? Or at the very least, provide detailed instructions, i.e. use of soap and water vs. plain water, soak the sandpaper, or just use a spray bottle, ect.
i need to find some of this stuffI have been using a liquid polishing paste for more than 15 years now and that stuff hasn't failed me yet. Known as "Commandant4" it is meant to restore the shine on carpaint, scraping off the micromilimeter of dull toplayer, just like wetsanding. I've had great results with very bad lenses and I have used many cans throughout the years.
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It's a Dutch product, not available in physical stores elsewhere but it can be found on the UK website of Amazon and through German and Belgian websites.
CLICK HERE for Amazon UK
It is like liquid sandpaper, mushed together into a can.
Applying it with a light damp cloth, making circles and applying pressure while doing so, you can hear it working on the plastic. When it gets less liquid and harder to rub it in, leave it to dry for a couple minutes then buff it out thorouhly. I usually apply one layer of regular carwax to seal the plastic and protect the shine.
For facebook users, here's a link to my photoalbum with polishing pics
https://www.facebook.com/dallascapr...99096038674.1073741831.100002557633554&type=1
Small example of why I love to work with this stuff so much, just had one go at the MX dome on the right, it was as bad as the one on the left.
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The method I use is great at restoring, but not protecting from future problems. Since I display my lights indoors it doesn't matter to me. That said I have done lights for in-service vehicles and I have yet to be satisfied. Many kits claim that they both restore and protect, but I'm not convinced any of the all in one products actually protect against new UV exposure. The restoration portion is basically abrasives, taking off the damaged surface layers and exposing new "virgin" plastic. By the nature of the process the exposed new plastic gets damaged again very easily. There has been debate on whether a finer "grit" finishing compound helps slow the process of "re-hazing" or if you need an actual separate protection product when you are done. The kits that have a final "protection" step have yet to wow me. A stand alone protectant for use after the restoration would be my choice vs. the all in ones which I think often skimp on the initial restoration. There is also debate about to what extent even the "stand alone protectants" actually work.Thanks
I need to find a product that has higher than industry average UV protection.
Example; after using the 3M Headlight Restoration kit (with 2 hrs labor) The yellowing returns in about 10 months.
The only viable longer lasting solution is to replace the Yellowed headlights with OEM GM Parts, (where I get about 4-5 yrs of service life from a Headlight Lens.
PS. I miss the 'Ol Days of GLASS Lamps..lol