joeparv has multiple CVPI questions
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In the top picture, the black thing in your hand look like the ashtray light, but not sure. Not sure what the other piece is. The gray cable looped in the black loom looks like an antenna cable.
In the middle picture, it looks like the wires to control whatever lights were in the car. It looks like they were attached to a Federal Signal SW300 switchbox.
In the bottom picture, the large black cable is the cable that connects a Motorola radio to the remote head. The two wires off that same cable with the white connector are for the
speaker connection.
The other black cable with all the little multicolored wires looks like the control cable for a Whelen lightbar.
In the middle picture, it looks like the wires to control whatever lights were in the car. It looks like they were attached to a Federal Signal SW300 switchbox.
In the bottom picture, the large black cable is the cable that connects a Motorola radio to the remote head. The two wires off that same cable with the white connector are for the
speaker connection.
The other black cable with all the little multicolored wires looks like the control cable for a Whelen lightbar.
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Has headlight flasher and strobes still installed. Which ones for those? And the bottom pic there's other wires next to the radio one. N thanks
The headlight flasher wire is probably going to be in that bundle with all the yellow connectors. Same with the strobe activation wires. But the question is, is there a power supply somewhere to power the strobes?
Top pic is a light n radio I believe. Middle is a bunch with clips maybe from the bar they had on it but there's a red one taped up that's barely visible. The bottom is I'm guessin for an arrowstick and also there's a few other wires there. Car has flasher and also strobes with power supply. There's a black button under the driver dash that doesn't do anything. Not yet anyways. Trying to find out whichnisn for the strobes n flasher so I can hook back up. Pain in the ass it is lol
shues said:
I think your right. Now that I look at it again there isnt enough wires in there for it to be a Whelen control cable.
How do I get this to work? It's all wired in to the lights but the power isn't hooked up. Once I run power to it do I need to hook it to a switch? And how would I go about trouble shooting it?? Thanks
Install Guide: http://www.whelen.com/install/132/13289.pdf
You will need something to switch it on - a controller or switch etc..
No idea the other details - so cannot be much more help..
You will need something to switch it on - a controller or switch etc..
No idea the other details - so cannot be much more help..
You have to connect the blue, yellow, red and black wires in order for your headlights operate properly. By connecting the red and black wires, the circuit becomes active and monitors the blue wire for a high beam input. When a high beam input is present, the relay for the yellow wire activates. If your red or black wire were not connected, the pax headlight would not light.
By connecting the orange wire, the flasher circuit is activated while the high beam switch is in the off position. If the high beams were to go high while the flasher is on, then the flasher will stop flashing and both headlights will be steady until the high beams are deactivated. Let me know if you need any more explanation.
Tony
By connecting the orange wire, the flasher circuit is activated while the high beam switch is in the off position. If the high beams were to go high while the flasher is on, then the flasher will stop flashing and both headlights will be steady until the high beams are deactivated. Let me know if you need any more explanation.
Tony
ERM said:
It's all connected. Passenger side highbeam does not work when I turn in highbeams. Everything is connected I believe except for the power n the wire for a switch. So I gotta find that wire hook it to a switch hook the power wire up to the battery and then once that's done just flip the switch and they'll begin flashing?
joeparv said:
As I said, the red wire must be connected to the flasher in order for the pax side light to work. The orange wire will only make the lights flash, but the red is needed to power the flasher and run its code of monitoring the blue wire and activating the yellow wire for both headlights to come on. Connect the red wire and everything will work normally.
Tony
ERM said:
Ok so orange would be my switch? Can use a normal toggle so power acc n ground to the switch. And make sure that the red wire from the unit is connected to the battery. So once I connect the red wire to the battery the passenger side highbeams will work finally? Normally they both work its just the highbeam On the passenger side that doesn't work because the red wire isn't connected to 12v. So once I power that up my light will work n then to flash I have to connect orange to a switch. Thanks alot man I really appreciate it lol
Tony, you threw me off with the pax meaning passenger side. I have never heard the passenger side called pax, its always been pass! What you call left? 
joeparv said:
I think if you cannot figure it out with explanations here, and via the install manual, you should have someone who knows what they are doing install/complete it for you. (and watch them so you can learn)
unlisted said:
It's not that I can't do it. It's just figuring out where the wires run to n what's what. There's alot of wire still and what they did was just cut em so gotta trace em back to their source. Thanks tho I appreciate all the help
Where should I drill the hole n mount the led hideaway on the reverse lights? I have the code 3 6pk hide a blasts. Where should I put them at in comparison to the halogen reverse bulb??
jrfive0 said:
ok i see what you mean. its pretty much directly underneath the reg bulbs position. did it give you a problem when puttin back on with clearence issues?
jrfive0 said:
these have a heatsink on the back of them. the vertexs do not. i also have them on my other vehicle but theres more than enough room for that. maybe someone else mite have done it and would chime in and give some info lol
joeparv said:
Headlight flashers that someone else installed are not my favorite either. You are in for some tracing and comparing to the pdf file...
Same place as where we do strobe. Put the hole saw next to the top corner closest to the liscence plate and go in on that angle. Plenty of clearance
Yea I just did them. I put it above the bulb and on the outside. So if you were looking at it from the back they'd be at about 2oclock position. Thanks for all the help guys
The new Feniex Cannon dual color would have gone into existing hole. Mode 1 would be reverse lights and mode 2 would be warning. Similar to how I did my fog lights...
Something to keep in mind for future installs. Until Mar 8th we have a great deal on them. PM for more info
Something to keep in mind for future installs. Until Mar 8th we have a great deal on them. PM for more info
Kd8bao said:
Was thinking about getting a pair of those. But was prob gonna wait til the 3 came out instead.
joeparv said:
3? I know a version 2 will be coming out later with a dim function for dual element bulb replacement.
Honestly, If you are not afraid to drill into your reverse light housing then do it. If you want more light for a reverse light then get the cannon with clear to use for reverse mode. I woud drill below the factory location (the 5 o'clock position is probably ideal). I will be positioning my cannon facing straight out and be doing solid colors to get the full power of the cannon. I may do a second one in the factory reverse light bulb hole in the opposite color(i run red/blue). The only reason I will doing this is because my reverse lights are disconnected. They have been ever since I had an IR camera installed on my car as they interfere with it. That is a "luxury" i have that you may not though as I typically dont reccommend disconnecting reverse lights all together.
When I have a customer asking about the cannons for replacement reverse lights my questions will be:
-Are you unhappy with the reverse light output as it stands? If so I will tell them to add a cannon IN ADDITION too their reverse light.
-Are you unwilling to have a hole drilled into your light housing (that a plug can close when you remove it)? If so, this is about the only way I will push to have a cannon placed into that position. However, they are not DOT approved so each customer will need to be explained that risk.
When I have a customer asking about the cannons for replacement reverse lights my questions will be:
-Are you unhappy with the reverse light output as it stands? If so I will tell them to add a cannon IN ADDITION too their reverse light.
-Are you unwilling to have a hole drilled into your light housing (that a plug can close when you remove it)? If so, this is about the only way I will push to have a cannon placed into that position. However, they are not DOT approved so each customer will need to be explained that risk.
Already drilled and put them in. Drilled he hopes at the top of the housing at about the 2oclock position which is where most of te clearance is at so that the housing would fit back into the trunk. Had to snip a little sheet metal away so that it would fit but wasnt hard at all. It's about the only place they would fit without making more adjustments other then just a little snip here like I did. The heat sink on em is a little thick so that's why I had my problem I had. Will put a video up shortly so yous can see the finished product
Yes Sir. Whelen made the HALO system that was the only system approved by DOT, FMCSA, or some other federal dept.(can't remember which one) that could replace the OEM lights. The approval was only for the CVPI though if I am not mistaken.FireEMSPolice said:
hitman38367 said:
and they are freaking AWESOME! (even in non DOT approved vehicles.. ahem)
:thumbsup:Be nice if they came out with them again. But I guess the cannons are closest to it available so far. So if I out a pair in my taillights could I just get solid red then? So it would be warning and also work as the regular brake lights do already? Or if I did the front I could do say amber for te turn signals and then have the second color white as a strobe??
What is your opinions on the best , brightest, or easiest install set of grille lights for a CVPI? Prob going to go with 2 so wouldn't want them to be tiny. I was thinking possibly the Weldon diamondbacks or a perimeter light such as a 3x7 or 4x6. What do yous think??
yes they are!!! I have a 4 bulb set for the taillights of the Tahoe I am getting and I also have a 2 bulb set that I will be modifying the DRL spots on the Tahoe for. (kinda like Cajun did with the Batmobile but all red. lol!!!) :thumbsup:unlisted said:and they are freaking AWESOME! (even in non DOT approved vehicles.. ahem)
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