LED hide a way recommendation

[Kaltag]

I just purchased a 2024 Ford Expedition. I want to put hide a way lights in the reverse light and turn signal.
I purchased Whelen LED strobes when they first came out and I thought they were horrible - could hardly be seen during the daylight.

Looking for an LED that will generate approximately the same light output as the 30W Xenon bulbs I had on my 2024 Expedition

As always, thank you in advance.

 

[C17LVFD]

It’s been a few years since I’ve done installs, but the Fenix Cannons were the brightest I found and that’s what I used as long as I didn’t have to sync the entire project. It’s hard to beat 12 1w leds on a head. Obviously optimal light will come from doing single color vs duo or trio.

Seth

 

[cabunty]

Not a lot of room in there for that...and isn't the turn signal split?

I'd just get a taillight flasher.

 

[NoLimitSquads]

Not a lot of room in there for that...and isn't the turn signal split?

I'd just get a taillight flasher.

Ive been able to install Vertex in both the reverse and brake/signal light portion of Expedition tail lights.

 

[JohnMarcson]

Which tail light assembly is it?

This might be doable


I wouldn't try with these


I don't think hide aways are a good option under the best circumstances / mounting options. I hate drilling into factory light assemblies, there is almost always moisture issues. Also, factory assemblies are designed with the factory bulb as the focal point. Anything added is going tho not be in an ideal spot or will block the factory bulb. Finally, the clearances have become almost nonexistent and many assemblies are LED. There are just less and less good options for mounting hide aways. In this case, depending on the specific trim style, I don't know that anything will fit. I will admit I am a hide away hater...

My preference is a tail light flasher. However, these come with their own issues. I'm not sure the implications of using a taillight flasher in this specific vehicle, there doesn't seem to be a plug and play model. I worry about numerous issues that come with tapping the factory wiring when the flasher isn't designed for that model. Every model year things get more computer controlled and flasher installation becomes more model specific.

If you have room to do the project at all I would argue that all the major brands are now sufficiently bright, you should shop by size. Strobes n' More brand is affordable and low profile in both the size of the "lens" and base. Soundoff tend to be a bit larger in the "lens", Feniex has a larger base. Whelen Vertex are a good compromise in size but cost more. Depending on the trim / housing style I would try Strobes N more brand or Whelen Vertex.

 

[NoLimitSquads]

I agree with John, the model that you have makes a difference. I always look up the cost of a replacement tail light before I drill into one. I never drill lights that have sensors in them. I also agree with not wanting to flash OEM lights by tapping wires. Our jobs are just getting more difficult as these vehicles are getting newer, more data controlled, and more expensive. Having said all that, if you must flash a factory bulb, Ive seen some failures in new Fords using the method of breaking the circuit with a relay. Probably has something to do with the computer looking for a load on the circuit, and not seeing it. Ive had better luck not breaking the circuit, but rather diode isolating everything.

 

[cabunty]

I agree with John, the model that you have makes a difference. I always look up the cost of a replacement tail light before I drill into one. I never drill lights that have sensors in them. I also agree with not wanting to flash OEM lights by tapping wires. Our jobs are just getting more difficult as these vehicles are getting newer, more data controlled, and more expensive. Having said all that, if you must flash a factory bulb, Ive seen some failures in new Fords using the method of breaking the circuit with a relay. Probably has something to do with the computer looking for a load on the circuit, and not seeing it. Ive had better luck not breaking the circuit, but rather diode isolating everything.

You can make your own harnesses to tap in. They take about 10 minutes to make. No cutting into factory wires. Isolation is the key. This sounds beyond the OP's ability though.

Dedicated lights on their own is the best, and easiest way to solve rear warning though.

 

[NoLimitSquads]

You can make your own harnesses to tap in. They take about 10 minutes to make. No cutting into factory wires. Isolation is the key. This sounds beyond the OP's ability though.

Dedicated lights on their own is the best, and easiest way to solve rear warning though.

I know that I can make my own harness. I just prefer to use a premade harness due to liability reasons. My shop had to pay for a new tail light on a new PIU because we flashed them making our own harness. The BCM was totally isolated. The tail light simply failed. But because we were flashing a factory light, and the dealership could see aftermarket wiring, they would not warranty it. Since then I quit flashing factory lights unless the customer purchases a pre-made flasher. This is also the reason why I buy the Intermotive BlackOut Module instead of just using relays like I used to in the past. Just putting the liability on someone else. As an upfitter, we get the blame for everything.

 

[JohnMarcson]

I know that I can make my own harness. I just prefer to use a premade harness due to liability reasons. My shop had to pay for a new tail light on a new PIU because we flashed them making our own harness. The BCM was totally isolated. The tail light simply failed. But because we were flashing a factory light, and the dealership could see aftermarket wiring, they would not warranty it. Since then I quit flashing factory lights unless the customer purchases a pre-made flasher. This is also the reason why I buy the Intermotive BlackOut Module instead of just using relays like I used to in the past. Just putting the liability on someone else. As an upfitter, we get the blame for everything.

Agreed.

A lot of time "current me" is "future me's" worst enemy. One of the few times "current me" has really done "future me" a solid was declining to splice into a newer ford before the plug and play adapter came out for that year. The person who did the job has been approached about replacing the the oem hardware following a series of component failures and check engine light issues. I have no idea how much of that was actually caused by the install but the ford dealer sure seems to think it is connected. The dealer is telling the customer that "who ever cut up your oem harness caused this".

In this era of subscription based sunroofs and cars that won't shift out of park when the radio is updating, I'm not touching anything I can't replace. It's a sad state of affairs, but it is the world we live in.

 

[cabunty]

I know that I can make my own harness. I just prefer to use a premade harness due to liability reasons. My shop had to pay for a new tail light on a new PIU because we flashed them making our own harness. The BCM was totally isolated. The tail light simply failed. But because we were flashing a factory light, and the dealership could see aftermarket wiring, they would not warranty it. Since then I quit flashing factory lights unless the customer purchases a pre-made flasher. This is also the reason why I buy the Intermotive BlackOut Module instead of just using relays like I used to in the past. Just putting the liability on someone else. As an upfitter, we get the blame for everything.

Oh dear...like I said, the OP would be better off with separate dedicated lights.

I just use the stuff and tinker with it here and there. We have the flashbacks in all...900ish...of our cars. Never had an issue.

Take care.

 

[Kaltag]

Great discussion guys - thanks for the feedback.
Cabunty- where did you drill into the reverse light? There is a flat portion on the bottom I thought would be excellent.

Also, I'm not tapping the electrical system of a brand new car. Going to use the cigarette plug in the back and a relay to power. Not voiding the warranty for a set of hide-a-way lights.

 

[cabunty]

Great discussion guys - thanks for the feedback.
Cabunty- where did you drill into the reverse light? There is a flat portion on the bottom I thought would be excellent.

Also, I'm not tapping the electrical system of a brand new car. Going to use the cigarette plug in the back and a relay to power. Not voiding the warranty for a set of hide-a-way lights.

Okay if this is your plan then just get dedicated separate lights that have nothing to do with your tail lights. Especially if you're going to use a cigarette plug and a relay...? Like a couple of Ions in your back window or attached to the spoiler. Someone else claimed they put hideaways in these, not me.